Monday, December 24, 2007

Review - Haru Sushi (Melbourne, FL)

It seems like a long time ago that sushi was still a novelty. Those days have come and gone to such a great extent that you're just as likely to find sushi in a 7-11 as you are anywhere else.

Interpreting sushi at any one of these places is a lot like interpreting the constitution. Either you're a strict constructionist - a restaurant with a fairly limited menu that focuses primarily on the fish, or you've got a more liberal interpretation of sushi - you've got a larger menu that focuses on playing to the modern tastes of the masses.

When it comes to sushi, I'm a strict constructionist. I'm the Antonin Scalia of sushi. Just cut up the freshest fish you can find, throw in some rice, a little bit of wasabi and soy sauce, and you've got the best meal out there.

Last night my family and I went to Haru, which I've been told is the best sushi outfit in the area.

For me, this is like Scalia going to a forum on the constitution at the Center for American Progress. I loved the topic, I just didn't like the spin on it.

Haru's menu is primarily what they consider "special rolls". Rolls with names like, "La Bamba" and "Spice Girls". Rolls that often have a poor rice to fish ratio and cover the fish in a sauce that takes away from what makes sushi special.

Now, this wasn't bad. In fact, for what it was, I rather enjoyed it.

The edamame we shared was good, well salted and warm.

I ordered a conch roll, probably the most simple roll on the menu, and enjoyed it very much. Conch isn't something you see back home in DC, and I generally try to get it as much as possible when I come down to Florida.

For my other roll I got a "Florida Roll", which consisted of yellow tail, tuna, scallions, avocado, and masago. Again, this was good, but too complicated for my taste. The individual ingredients were drowned out by each other. You could have thrown gefilte fish in there and I probably wouldn't have known.

My mother got a "Volcano Roll", which again was too complicated for my taste, and covered with dynamite sauce, which as I'm sure you all know, is a staple of traditional Japanese cuisine.

For what it is, Haru was good. The fish was fresh, and the steak dish my father got was actually very well prepared. The only major drawback of the restaurant itself was the service, which was almost good enough to be declared decent.

But for what I like, Haru just couldn't cut it. I'm sure the Center for American Progress would put on a great forum on the constitution, but if you're Antonin Scalia, you're probably going to stick to The Federalist Society.

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I love the Haru on 76th in New York. I was surprised to find out that this is a Benihana-owned chain. Either way, I heard one is opening in DC.